San Miguel de Allende is full of cafes, rooftop bars, and restaurants. We recommend just wandering through town and going for what looks interesting. But, if you need a little guidance, below are some popular recommendations for food and drinks. Places marked with an "*" we have been to.
EAT
MERCADO SAN JUAN DE DIOS*
If you really want to dive into the heart of SMA, visit one of the local markets. At Mercado San Juan de Dios, you can browse through the day's market offerings and stop at the various food stalls for aguas frescas, tacos, huaraches, tortas, and much more. And it'll be much cheaper and better than your two for 99-cents tacos at Jack in the Box.
The address is Indio Triste 14B. The hours are 9:00am to 8:00pm daily.
Moxi
Those looking for serious, high-end cooking in San Miguel can't do much better than Moxi. Run by Enrique Olvera, one of the country's foremost chefs and owner of Mexico-city restaurant Pujol (currently ranked number 20 on San Pellegrino's list of the world's 50 best restaurants) Moxi's kitchen specializes in innovative and artfully presented takes on Mexican classics. Dishes change with the seasons and include confit leg of suckling pig with almond mole sauce and tamarind puree, and beef carpaccio with rocket and buttermilk. Housed in the boutique Hotel Matilda, Moxi's dining room is casual but elegant and boasts an impressive art collection.
Aldama 53, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico +52 415 152 0883
CUMPANIO*
At breakfast time, locals can be found at Cumpanio (Correo 29), a sleek new gourmet bakery/café just off the Jardín, the city’s main square with its signature pink Gothic-style cathedral. This hip little watering hole is also open for lunch, light supper, and nightcaps.
Calle Correo #29, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico +52 415 152 2327
La Posadita*
La Posadita boasts one of the best restaurant locations in San Miguel and the views from its charming roof terrace are a big part of its draw. Homely service accompanies the generous portions of Mexican fare which includes fajitas, stuffed chillies, and cochinita pibil, Yucatan-style shredded pork marinated with orange juice. Pozole, a homely broth beloved across Mexico and a cornerstone of the country's food culture, is regularly available at weekends and well worth trying. Margaritas from the bar, including a tamarind-flavoured twist on the classic recipe, are expertly made and uniformly well received, making La Posadita the perfect spot to unwind after a day's sight-seeing.
Cuna de Allende 13, Cento, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico +52 415 154 8862
Via Orgánica
More than just a restaurant, Via Orgánica forms part of a local non-profit organisation that runs both a nearby organic farm and a school designed to promote sustainable farming techniques, fair trade and environmentally friendly living. The winner of numerous guidebook plaudits, the cafe itself uses all organic produce, serving local wines and beer from Via Orgánica's own microbrewery. With freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, salads, and plenty of vegetarian dishes on the menu, this is the place to come for a taco detox. Breakfast is also a strong-suit, with options including pancakes with fresh fruit and home-made granola. More produce from the farm is available from the whole food shop on site.
Via Organica, Calle Margarito Ledesma 2, San Miguel de Allende, Guanjuato, Mexico, +52 415 121 0540
Cafetería San Agustín*
An obligatory stop for breakfast or a late night snack, Cafetería San Agustín is something of an institution in San Miguel. Popular with visitors from elsewhere in Mexico on account of its owner, former Mexican soap opera star Margarita Gralia, its similarly renowned for its churros con chocolate: crisp doughnut sticks, dusted in sugar and served with freshly made drinking chocolate for dipping. With its lively coffee-house atmosphere and views of the Iglesia de San Francisco, it's a nice place to linger provided there isn't a lengthy queue. A range of different chocolates are on offer, from dark and rich to sweet. If you're in the mood for something savoury, enchiladas and other Mexican favourites are also available.
San Francisco 21, Zona Centro, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico +52 415 154 9102
Cafe Firenze
Overlooking the church of San Antonio, Cafe Firenze would be worth a visit for the views alone, but the kitchen, overseen by two chefs from Atlanta also happens to serve some of the best Italian cuisine in town. Perfect if you're looking for a change from Mexican fair, Cafe Firenze is known as much for bold Mediterranean flavours as for refined presentation. Its beef short rib has won wide acclaim, with classics like porcini mushroom risotto finished with white truffle oil, carbonara and tiramisu also on the menu. Many ingredients are locally-sourced and organic, while pasta and even smoked salmon is freshly made in-house. With strong representation both from Italy and South America, the wine list is a further strength, as is the friendly and attentive service.
Cafe Firenze, Plaza de San Antonio, # 2 sur, Callejón de San Antonio 1, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico +52 415 121 0763
Hecho en Mexico*
Popular with members of San Miguel's expat community and with good reason, Hecho en Mexico offers a varied menu which ranges from well-executed Mexican staples, including Veracruz-style grilled talapia and stuffed poblano chillies, to burgers and club sandwiches. The restaurant's elegant courtyard, with its flowering trellises, is a further draw. So too are performances from Cuban-born violinist Pedro Cartas and his quartet who take to the stage on Friday and Saturday evenings between 7.30 and 10pm. If you're overwhelmed by the choice try the arrachera, chargrilled flank steak marinated with lime juice, chillies and spices. A Mexican classic, it remains the most popular dish on the menu.
Ancha de San Anotnio 8, San Miguel de Allende, GuanaJuato, Mexico, +52 415 154 6383
La Virundela
Smokey grilled mushrooms and crisp empanadas feature on the menu of this family run Argentinian and Uruguayan establishment, but it's the steaks that are the main event. Cooked on a grill over smouldering mesquite wood coals that impart their subtle aroma to the meat, they're the best in town. Many of the tables are set in and around a leafy courtyard while the main dining room is hung with chandeliers and modern art.
La Virundela's affable owners also keep a cellar full of Latin America wines, including bottles from selected Argentinian bodegas, and are on hand to advise on pairings.
Hernández Macías 48, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico +52 415 152 4400
MuRo Cafe
Consistently among San Miguel's top rated restaurants, MuRo is regularly praised for the warmth of its staff. Breakfast is a highlight and the extensive menu runs from huevos a la mexicana (Mexican-style eggs with onion, green pepper and tomato) to pastries and french toast. Lunchtime offerings include burritos, tortilla soups, salads, and seasonal specials such as chiles en nogada, poblano chillies stuffed with ground meat and served with pomegranate seeds and a cream sauce. A wide variety of freshly made juices are on offer too and there is regularly live music in the tranquil fern-fringed courtyard at lunchtimes.
Loreto 10-B, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico Tel. +52 415 152 6341
CaFe Rama
Next to the Rosewood Hotel just outside the centre of town, Cafe Rama is another popular spot with San Miguel's visitors and resident expats. With mismatched furniture and the contemporary art on the walls (much of which is for sale) it's heading in the direction of trendy, but the food remains reasonably priced. Good coffee, a wide selection of teas, and classics such as eggs Florentine make it an excellent option for breakfast and the globetrotting lunchtime and evening menus offer something to suit all tastes. Open until midnight, Cafe Rama also keeps a well-stocked bar with a long list of cocktails to choose from.
Calle Nueva 7, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico +52 415 154 9655
Baja Fish Taquito
The best of San Miguel's budget options and a strong introduction to Mexico's hallowed-street food tradition, Baja Fish Taquito serves fish tacos, seafood cocktails and vibrant, lime-laced ceviche in an informal cafe-style setting. Portions are generous, piled high onto soft maize-flour tortillas and topped with fresh salsas and pico de gallo (a Mexican garnish made with chopped tomato, onion and chilli), while the service is swift and accommodating. With it's low prices (around US$1 a taco) and central location, Baja Fish Taquito is ideal for a quick pitstop amidst a full day of activities.
Calle Mesones #11-B, Zona Centro, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
“Taco Corner”*
There are dozens of great taco carts and even a few food trucks located throughout San Miguel. And some of the best vendors can always be found at the corner of Ancha de San Antonio and Nueva, across the street from the bus stop. Known among locals as “taco corner,” there are typically four to five vendors here at any given time (except during the mid-day siesta) selling tacos, gorditas, carnitas, tortas, and, sometimes, tamales into the wee hours.
DRINK
MUI BAR
A craft cocktail bar located in the same hotel as Moxi, Hotel Matilda. Decked out in modern art, lounge chairs and dark, sexy lighting, it’s where “the beautiful people hang out late at night,” according to hotel owner Spook Stream. There are plenty of attractive cocktails that utilize Mexican flavors like the Che Che Cacao of mezcal infused with nance tropical fruit, ancho chili, and agave nectar. Don’t miss a trip to the ‘baño’ where you’ll be accompanied by hundreds of naked people via artist Spencer Tunick’s photo-turned-wallpaper.
Aldama 53, Centro, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, +52 (415) 152 1015
la sirena gorda
Known as the Fat Mermaid (English translation) to the town’s extensive population of expats, stroll through the swinging saloon doors for ahi tuna tostadas, cold Mexican beers and signature ginger margaritas.
Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 85, Ruta Centro, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 152 5019
LA MEZCALERIA
Mezcaleria—San Miguel’s only true mezcal bar—could easily be plunked down in SoHo or Downtown L.A. with its modern décor and global grub. Grilled pulpo (octopus), homemade sausages paired with house mezcals from esoteric agave varietals will have you saying, “Hijole!”
Correo 47, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 121 5354
la casa dragones
When visiting San Miguel de Allende, Mexico there’s no more unique and memorable experience than a private tour or stay at La Casa Dragones. Visit the historic 17th century stables of the Dragones cavalry, now transformed into an elegant private home. This stunning 4-bedroom, 4-bath home is centrally located in the heart of San Miguel de Allende, close to the city’s finest restaurants, art galleries and cultural attractions. During a stay or private tour at the house, you’ll also receive an expert tasting of Casa Dragones Tequila. During the presentation, you’ll discover the innovative process and handcrafted techniques that result in Casa Dragones’ uniquely smooth tasting tequilas.
Luna rooftop tapas bar*
As the highest spot in town to watch the sun set, Luna Bar offers ridiculous views of colorful rooftops and church steeples framed by the Sierra Madre mountains. Tamarindo margaritas are the specialty, but ask for a double shot. It’s pretty tame on the tequila otherwise. Across the street from Rosewood’s Luna bar, Hotel Nena has a killer rooftop bar as well (with slightly less expensive drinks) complete with a tiny pool—just in case you have the urge to start a water fight.
Calle Nemesio Diez 11, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 152 9700
el tres
When in Mexico, it’s all about the bugs. Order the Malinche libation with the strategically absent ingredients on the menu for the ultimate surprise: Three plump, chili-seasoned chapulins (grasshoppers) grace the glass for a cocktail with crunchy goodness. Located in El Meson Hotel.
Mesones # 80, Centro, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, + 01415 152 0580
la azotea*
After dark on the weekends, the upstairs bar atop Pueblo Viejo restaurants heats up with a live DJ. The crowd is good mix of 20-something locals, trendy tourists and hippie expats. The sunset views are also pretty stellar.
Umaran 6, Zona Centro, San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 152 8265
the sunset bar*
The Sunset Bar, located across the street from the Angela Peralta theater, is another great place to take in a sunset. It has a much more casual vibe than the Luna Bar or Azotea. They have a lot of lounge seating for groups, but they also have table seating and a dozen or so barstools. And they have a limited menu of very casual, sinful bar food. (Try the Donkey Dog!!) They usually have a DJ late night on the weekends. Located above Casalina Hotel Boutique.
Calle Mesones 101, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 154 4007
sky lounge*
The Sky Lounge is located in a beautiful boutique hotel across the street from the Rosewood Hotel, and the small rooftop bar has views similar to the view from the Luna Bar, only from a slightly lower level. The Sky Lounge is small but very chic – it even has a small dipping pool. They also serve a limited menu of tapas and offer Happy Hour specials Tuesdays through Saturdays from 7:30 to 8:30.
Nemesio Diez, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico, +52 415 154 7129